"I was very impressed. He was on time and set up both key fobs and cut both keys for my car and it only took about an hour. He really knows his stuff and I really appreciated it."
— Glenn Buckboro · Google review
At RAXO Locksmiths in Winnipeg, I cut car keys on-site — a copy from your working key from $40+, or a fresh cut with no original from $90+, plus tax. Written quote by text first.
Updated July 2026
I'm Leo — whichever job it is, a quick duplicate, a from-scratch cut when you've lost everything, or a full cut-and-program, I handle it myself.
Only need the cheapest possible copy? I'll tell you straight when the hardware-store counter beats me on a plain metal key — my edge is chipped keys and fobs that have to be cut and programmed to start the car. Every route, compared honestly: Canadian Tire vs a locksmith.
Read this first
Most people search "car key cutting" expecting a 60-second job at a kiosk. For an older car, that's exactly right — cut the blade and you've got a working key. But almost every car built since roughly 2000 has an immobilizer: a chip in the key that the car's computer has to recognize before the engine will start.
So on a modern car there are two jobs hiding inside "key cutting." The cut is the mechanical blade — it lets the key slide into the lock and turn. The chip is the electronic half — it has to be programmed to the immobilizer or the car cranks but won't start. A blade cut on the wrong machine, or a chip that was never programmed, leaves you with a key that turns and goes nowhere.
I do both halves at your vehicle. If all you need is a plain blade — a valet key, a glovebox or trunk backup, or a spare for an older car — that's the cheap, fast end. If your car needs the chip programmed too, that's a spare key or, with nothing to start from, a lost-all-keys job. I'll tell you which in the quote — before I head out, never after.
What it costs
Open-ended starting prices. The exact number comes by text before I dispatch, and the number I send is the number you pay. These first two are the mechanical cut only — add programming if your car needs the chip.
Cheapest path
$40+
Got a key that works? I duplicate the blade on-site. Best for a cheap spare blade, a valet key, or a glovebox/trunk backup. No chip programming in this price. (High-security laser-cut blanks start at $60.)
No original needed
$90+
Lost every key and nothing to copy? I read the cuts from the lock itself and make a fresh blade from scratch. Many cars I can also cut to the manufacturer code. Ownership verified first.
If your car needs the chip
$90+ / $180+
$90+ transponder, $180+ smart key — the blade cut plus pairing the chip so the car actually starts. Lost every key? That's a lost-all-keys job from $280+ (smart keys from $350+).
Full breakdown across every service on the pricing page. Cutting a key for a car with no original means confirming you own it first — government photo ID matched to ownership proof (registration or proof of insurance in your name), the same ownership check I follow on lost-key jobs. All prices plus tax.
Two kinds of blade, two different machines. Knowing which one your car uses explains why the kiosk turned you away.
The traditional key — grooves cut along the edges of the blade. Standard on older and economy vehicles. Quick to copy, and what most people picture when they think "get a key cut."
High-security — the groove runs down the centre of the blade, on both sides, instead of along the edges. Standard on most domestic and Asian vehicles from about 2010 onward. It needs a high-security cutting machine — which is exactly why a mall kiosk can't copy one. I carry the blanks and the machine on hand.
Pricing: a laser-cut blank cut starts at $60. If your laser-cut key also needs a chip or smart-key programming, the cut is already included in the key price — no separate cut charge. Which key do I have?
No stock photos — a few keys I’ve cut on-site across Winnipeg.
Five stars on Google — early but real. Here are three.
"I was very impressed. He was on time and set up both key fobs and cut both keys for my car and it only took about an hour. He really knows his stuff and I really appreciated it."
— Glenn Buckboro · Google review
"Great service! He quickly made a copy of my car key, and it works perfectly. Friendly, professional, and fair price. Highly recommend!"
— Oleh Vashchenko · Google review
"Precise, polite and punctual."
— Dominic Ibeme · Google review
5.0 average · all verified on the Google Business Profile. No padding, no buying.
If yours isn't here, just text me. More on the full FAQ page.
Yes. If you have no key at all, I decode the lock itself to read the cuts and make a fresh blade from scratch — about $90 for the mechanical cut, with ownership verification first. Many vehicles I can also cut to the manufacturer code. If your car has an immobilizer (most since about 2000), the new key also needs programming to start the engine — that's priced like a spare or a lost-all-keys job.
Only if your car has no immobilizer chip, or the chip is also programmed. A correctly cut blade will fit the lock and turn — but a modern car won't start until the transponder chip in the key is paired to the immobilizer. Cutting is the mechanical half; programming is the electronic half. I do both, and I'll tell you in the quote which your car needs.
At RAXO Locksmiths in Winnipeg, a straight copy of a working key starts at $40 — that's the blade duplicated, no programming. Good for a cheap spare blade, a valet key, or a glovebox/trunk backup. Laser-cut (sidewinder) blanks cost a little more than edge-cut, but I carry both on hand. If the key also needs a chip programmed to start the car, that's the spare-key service: $90+ transponder, $180+ smart key.
Two reasons. First, most modern keys are laser-cut (sidewinder) — the groove runs down the middle of the blade and needs a high-security machine most kiosks don't have. Second, if the key has a transponder chip, a copied blade still won't start the car without programming, which a kiosk can't do. A cut from the wrong machine often won't even turn.
They can cut a plain mechanical blade — the metal half — but no retail counter or kiosk can program a transponder or smart key to your vehicle, so a chipped copy turns the lock and won't start the engine. For a pre-immobilizer metal key it's a fine, cheap option; for anything with a chip or buttons it's locksmith or dealer work. I compare every route honestly in my guide to the retail-counter option, including what Canadian Tire and Home Depot can and cannot do.
Yes. I carry laser-cut (sidewinder) blanks and the machine to cut them on hand. Most domestic and Asian vehicles from about 2010 onward use laser-cut keys. The cut is more precise than an old edge-cut key — which is also why a kiosk can't copy one.
A straight copy is 5–10 minutes. Decoding a lock or cutting to code takes longer because I'm building the cut from scratch. Cut-and-program is 30–40 minutes depending on the vehicle and its on-board security. I give the honest time in the written quote before I head out.
Often, yes — I can usually remove the broken piece and cut you a fresh key on-site. Send me a photo and your year/make/model and I'll tell you whether I can handle it before I head out, with the number in writing first.
Often, yes. Metal keys wear — every insertion shaves a little off the cuts, and after enough years the blade sits just shy of the depths the cylinder expects. A fresh key cut by decoding the lock ($90+) restores the factory spec, and a stiff ignition frequently smooths right out. Before you book anything, try the free fix: turn the steering wheel gently left and right while turning the key — a locked steering column is the most common "broken ignition" that isn't. If a crisp new key still fights you, the cylinder itself is worn or failing. That's ignition work I also handle, quoted per job once I've seen the vehicle.
If you're searching key cutting near me, I come to you instead — RAXO Locksmiths cuts and programs car keys at your vehicle anywhere in Winnipeg. Plain copies $40, cut-and-program from $90+, plus tax. No counter queue, no second trip when the kiosk blank fails.
Key takeaways
A straight copy of a working key is $40 ($60 for a laser-cut blank), a fresh blade decoded from the lock with no original is $90+, and cut-plus-program jobs run $90+ to $180+ — plus tax, at your car, quoted by text first.
Text is fastest. Tell me your year/make/model and whether you've got a working key — I'll send the number in writing before I head out.