These cover Chevrolet, GMC, and Buick — for general service, pricing, and how-it-works questions, see the dedicated spare, lost-keys, and fob pages, or the full FAQ page.
Do you do Chevy, GMC, and Buick — all three brands?
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Yes. Chevy, GMC, and Buick are all under the same GM umbrella, share their platforms, and (more importantly for me) share their key blanks and programming flows. A Silverado 1500 LTZ key is the same key as a Sierra 1500 SLT — same blank, same programming, same price. So when you tell me what GM vehicle you've got, I'm picking from one box of GM blanks, not three. All three brands in scope at the standard floor pricing.
What's PassLock and is it on my truck?
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PassLock is GM's anti-theft system from roughly 1996 through the late 2000s — it uses a magnetic sensor in the ignition lock cylinder instead of a chip in the key. Most Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban, Trailblazer, S-10, Cavalier, and Impala from that era are PassLock equipped. PassLock has a few well-known quirks (the famous "security light blinks, won't start, 10-minute relearn" trick), but I keep the right hardware to read, reset, and re-key these on-site. Newer GM trucks (2014+) moved to a CAN-based immobilizer with proper chip-in-key transponder + Smart Key proximity on premium trims.
How much does a Silverado or Sierra key replacement cost in Winnipeg?
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Spare or extra Silverado / Sierra key starts at $180+ if I supply, less if you bring your own reputable aftermarket fob. Lost all keys (AKL) starts at $280+. Fob programming on its own starts at $90+. Older 1500 trucks with traditional transponder + remote fobs sit at the floor; newer K2XX (2014+) and T1XX (2019+) trucks with proximity Smart Key sit higher because the proximity fob hardware costs more. High Country, Denali, AT4 trims all use the same key family as the base trim of their generation.
My security light is flashing on my 2003 Silverado / Tahoe / Trailblazer and it won't start. What is that?
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Classic PassLock symptom. The magnetic sensor in your ignition cylinder either failed, got knocked out of position, or the immobilizer "forgot" the lock's signature after a battery disconnect. There's a manufacturer-documented 10-minute relearn procedure (key in run position, wait, repeat three times) that solves it about half the time. If it doesn't, the lock cylinder sensor likely needs replacing — and I can do that on-site, including re-cutting your key to the new cylinder if the lock changes during the swap.
Do you do EV GM vehicles — Bolt, Blazer EV, Equinox EV, Silverado EV?
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Yes. The GM Ultium-platform EVs (Blazer EV, Equinox EV, Silverado EV, GMC Hummer EV, Cadillac Lyriq if it ever comes my way) use the same proximity Smart Key architecture as the gas trucks and SUVs of the same era. The EV powertrain doesn't change the key/immobilizer side of things. Bolt EV / Bolt EUV (older platform, discontinued 2023) on the standard CAN-based Smart Key family. All in scope at the standard floor pricing.
Can you do my older Cobalt / HHR / Aveo / Cavalier?
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Yes. These are PassLock-era GM compacts and they're well-supported — usually the cheaper end of my GM bracket because the keys are simpler. Cobalt SS, HHR Panel, Aveo5, all variants in scope. Watch for the same security-light quirks the trucks have — a stuck PassLock relearn is the most common reason these get tow-truck'd to the dealer when a mobile locksmith could solve it in 30 minutes.
Can you cut a Chevy / GMC / Buick key from the VIN if I have no key at all?
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Yes — that's the all-keys-lost (AKL) job, and across Chevrolet, GMC, and Buick it's usually the same GM key family for a given platform year. Using dealer-level access — the same information the dealership works from — I cut a fresh blade and program a new transponder or push-button Smart Key into your GM immobilizer right at your vehicle in Winnipeg, no tow required. Before I start I verify ownership — photo ID matched to your registration or proof of insurance in your name — and if your papers are locked in the car, I run the lockout first so you can grab them.