Slides into a slot → $220+
The chunky fob you push into a slot by the wheel, then press START/STOP.
At RAXO Locksmiths in Winnipeg, I now make spare and second keys for most BMW and MINI vehicles from the mid-2000s onward — from $220+ for the slot-in style fob, $350+ for the newer keyless one, plus tax. Cut and programmed at your vehicle, not at a dealership. Written quote by text first.
By Leo — mobile auto locksmith, Winnipeg · Updated July 2026
BMW is the newest brand I've added, and I'd rather be precise than oversell it: this is a spare-key service — you have a working key, I make you another one. Coverage runs across most of the lineup, but there are a few model years I have to check before I quote, and an older group I genuinely can't do. Text me your year and model and I'll tell you which you're in, before you book anything.
Which BMW key is yours?
Ten seconds at the car tells you your price tier.
Slides into a slot → $220+
The chunky fob you push into a slot by the wheel, then press START/STOP.
Stays in your pocket → $350+
No slot anywhere; the car starts with the fob still in your bag.
You turn a metal key
That's the older system — I'll tell you straight that it's not one I can do.
Not sure? Text me a photo of the key and your VIN — I'll identify it.
Start here
BMW has used three quite different key systems over the years, and they look similar enough that people mix them up constantly. You don't need to know what any of them are called — you just need to know what your car does when you start it. That single answer puts you in a price tier and tells me whether the job is even mine to take.
Covered · $220+
A chunky black wedge-shaped fob with the BMW roundel and no blade sticking out — there's a small emergency blade that pops out of the base when you press the catch. You push the whole fob into a slot to the right of the steering wheel, then press START/STOP. Roughly 2002 through the mid-2010s across the lineup. Some of these have Comfort Access, where the fob can stay in your pocket — the slot is still there, and it's still this tier.
Covered · $350+
A slimmer, more rounded fob, and there's no slot anywhere in the cabin to put it in. You walk up, the car unlocks, you press START/STOP with the key still in your bag. This is the newer hardware and it's a materially more expensive part, which is the whole reason for the second tier. On these I'll want your exact year before I quote, because a few of them fall outside what I can do.
Not mine to take
If your BMW starts by putting a metal key into a lock cylinder and turning it, that's the older generation, and it runs a system I don't cover. I'd rather say so on this page than take your booking and disappoint you in a parking lot. Your dealer or a specialist shop is the right call. Everything on this site is work I stand behind — which means being honest about what I don't take.
The start-up test above sorts you into a tier in about ten seconds. To actually lock the quote I need two photos, because on a BMW the model year in a listing is not always the car you're standing next to — the generations overlap at the changeover, and body style matters as much as year.
Photo of your existing key, both sides.
Photo of the VIN — bottom of the windshield, driver's side. Why I ask.
Written quote back by text — that's the number you pay.
The VIN is what settles it. Two cars badged the same year can be different generations underneath, and on BMW that's the difference between a straightforward spare key and a job I have to turn down.
The BMW lineup
Model-year ranges below are the ones I'm confident in. Where a range stops short, that's deliberate — it means I need your VIN before I promise anything, not that I've forgotten the newer cars.
2006+ · sedan · wagon · coupe
The BMW I see most in Winnipeg — 320i, 328i, 330i, 335i, xDrive, and the M3. Sedans and wagons from 2006 onward, coupes and convertibles from 2007. One catch worth knowing: in 2006 BMW sold two different 3 Series side by side, and the 2006 coupe, convertible and M3 are the older car — those I can't do. The sedan and wagon that year are fine.
2004–2016 · plus newest
525i, 528i, 530i, 535i, 550i, xDrive and the M5, covered without a break from 2004 through 2016 — the sedan the whole way, the Sports Wagon from 2006. The 2017–2020 cars are the ones I have to check before quoting. The Gran Turismo is covered 2010–2017.
2008+ · coupe · convertible
1 Series 128i / 135i coupes and convertibles, 2008–2013. 2 Series from 2014. 4 Series — 428i, 430i, 435i, 440i, Gran Coupe — from 2014, and the M models of that era alongside them. The 1 Series hatchback was never sold in Canada, so if you have one it came from somewhere else and I'll want the VIN.
X3 2011+ · X4 2015+
X3 from 2011 and X4 from 2015. Read this bit carefully if you drive an X3: the 2004–2010 X3 is the one generation I can't do at all — every year of it. It sits right in the middle of an era where nearly every other BMW is fine, which makes it the single easiest mistake to make on this page. Late-2010s X3 and X4 I confirm by VIN first.
X5 2007+ · X6 2008+ · X7
X5 from 2007 onward and X6 from 2008 onward, both continuous from there, including the X5 M and X6 M. X7 covered as well. The line to watch is at the bottom: an X5 from 2006 or earlier is the older generation and is out. 2007 in, 2006 out — a clean flip.
the rest of the range
7 Series 2002–2015 — 745i, 750i, 760Li, Alpina B7. 6 Series 2004–2010 and again 2012–2019 (there was no 2011). Z4 from 2009, the folding-hardtop car — the soft-top Z4 up to 2008 is out, hardtop or not. X1 2013–2015; the 2016-and-newer X1 is a different vehicle underneath despite the same badge.
Driving something not listed — an i-series, an M8, or a 2025/2026 car? Text me anyway. The list above is what I'll commit to in writing; anything outside it I'll check and give you a straight yes or no rather than a maybe.
MINI
MINI shares its key systems with BMW, so if you drive one the whole page above applies to you — same tiers, same process, same written quote by text.
Covered
MINI Hardtop and Cooper / Cooper S from 2007, Clubman from 2008, Convertible from 2009, Coupe and Roadster, Countryman from 2011, Paceman from 2013. Newer MINIs I'll confirm against your VIN before quoting.
The MINI trap
The original MINI shape stayed on sale as a convertible for two years after the hatchback was replaced — so a 2007 or 2008 MINI Convertible can still be the older car, running the system I can't do, while a 2007 MINI hatch is perfectly fine. This is exactly why I ask for the VIN instead of trusting the year.
Also worth knowing: a MINI key that flips out like a switchblade is almost always an aftermarket replacement, so the shape of the key tells you nothing. Use the start-up test instead.
Straight answers
Most brand pages only list what the shop can do. On a BMW that would actively cost you time, because the cars I can't help with look and feel exactly like the ones I can. So here they are.
These run an older immobiliser than the one I work with. Not a maybe — a no.
Some of these I can do and some I can't, and it splits partway through a generation rather than neatly at a model year. Rather than guess in public, I check your VIN and give you a real answer the same day.
That's a different job from the one this page sells. Spare keys — where you hand me a working key — are straightforward across the range above. All-keys-lost on a BMW is heavier work, and whether I can take yours depends on the exact car, so I won't put a flat price on it. Text me the year and model and I'll tell you honestly whether it's mine or whether you're better off at the dealer. For every other brand, all-keys-lost is a standard job — see lost car keys in Winnipeg.
BMW pricing
At RAXO Locksmiths in Winnipeg, a spare BMW or MINI key is $220+ for the slot-in style fob and $350+ for the newer keyless fob, plus tax — cut and programmed at your vehicle, with a written quote by text before I drive out.
Open-ended starting prices. BMW sits above my other brands for two honest reasons: the blade is high-security laser-cut, and the fob hardware genuinely costs more. Both are part cost, not a premium for the badge.
Spare / second key
$220+ plus tax
The chunky fob you push into a slot before pressing START/STOP — most BMWs from the mid-2000s into the mid-2010s. Blade cut and the key programmed at your car. More on how a second key works on the spare key page.
Spare / second key
$350+ plus tax
No slot in the cabin, car starts with the fob in your bag. The newer fob is the single most expensive key part I carry, which is the whole gap between the two tiers. Exact year confirmed before I quote.
Good to know
You can, and sometimes it works out. But BMW is the brand where cheap online fobs go wrong most often — wrong frequency for a Canadian car, or a used one already married to someone else's vehicle. Send me a photo and the part number before you buy and I'll tell you if it's worth trying. Supply-your-own policy →
Transponder, remote-head, smart — every key style is defined in plain terms on the car key replacement explainer, and the laser-cut blade BMW uses is covered on the key cutting page.
Most jobs add 12% tax (7% Manitoba PST + 5% GST); labour-only work — like programming a fob you already own — is 5% GST only. Distance fees case-by-case (typically free inside the Perimeter). Payment by e-transfer, tap, or cash — after the key works. Full pricing transparency on the pricing page. Other brand pages: Toyota · Honda / Acura · Ford / Lincoln. Full vehicle list on vehicles I service.
BMW is new to my lineup, so there's one photo here and there'll be more as I shoot them. No stock photos on this site — ever.
Two spare keys added to a 328xi in Winnipeg — the owner had one working key and wanted backups before winter.
Five stars on Google — early but real. Here are three.
"I was very impressed. He was on time and set up both key fobs and cut both keys for my car and it only took about an hour. He really knows his stuff and I really appreciated it."
— Glenn Buckboro · Google review
"Great service! He quickly made a copy of my car key, and it works perfectly. Friendly, professional, and fair price. Highly recommend!"
— Oleh Vashchenko · Google review
"Precise, polite and punctual."
— Dominic Ibeme · Google review
5.0 average · all verified on the Google Business Profile. No padding, no buying.
These are BMW-specific — for general service, pricing, and how-it-works questions, see the dedicated spare, fob, and pricing pages, or the full FAQ page.
A spare BMW or MINI key starts at $220+ plus tax for the slot-in style fob — the chunky black one you push into a slot on the dash before pressing START/STOP — and $350+ plus tax for the newer keyless fob that stays in your pocket. BMW blades are high-security laser-cut, which is why the floor sits above my other brands: the blank alone starts at $60. Text me a photo of your existing key along with the year and model and I'll tell you which tier you're in before I dispatch. The number I send is the number you pay.
Most BMWs from roughly the mid-2000s onward. That covers 3 Series from 2006, 5 Series from 2004, 7 Series from 2002, 1 Series 2008 to 2013, 2 Series and 4 Series, X1 2013 to 2015, X3 from 2011, X4, X5 from 2007, X6 from 2008, X7, Z4 from 2009, and the M versions of those cars. There are two places I have to check first: some 5 Series, 7 Series, X3 and X4 from the late 2010s, and anything very new. And there is a hard line at the older end — the pre-2006 3 Series, the 2004 to 2010 X3, the pre-2007 X5 and the pre-2009 Z4 run an older system I don't cover. Text me your year and model and I'll tell you straight before you book.
Right now BMW and MINI are a spare-key service — you bring me a working key and I add another one. All-keys-lost on a BMW is a different and much heavier job, and whether I can do yours depends on the exact year and model, so I handle those case by case rather than advertising a flat price. If you've lost every key to your BMW, text me the year and model anyway and I'll tell you honestly whether it's something I can take on or whether the dealer is your better option. I'd rather send you to the right place than waste your afternoon. On every other brand I service, all-keys-lost is standard work.
Quickest test: look at the steering column and dashboard. If you push the whole fob into a slot and then press START/STOP, you have the slot-in style key — that's the $220+ tier. If there's no slot anywhere and the car starts with the fob in your pocket or your bag, you have the newer keyless fob — that's the $350+ tier. If you turn a metal key in a lock cylinder to start the car, that's the older system and I can't help with that one. Easiest of all: text me a photo of your key and a photo of your VIN and I'll identify it for you.
Yes — MINI is covered alongside BMW and priced the same way. That includes the MINI Hardtop and Cooper from 2007, Clubman from 2008, Convertible from 2009, Coupe and Roadster, Countryman from 2011, and Paceman. One trap worth knowing: the original MINI shape stayed on sale as a convertible right through 2008, so a 2007 or 2008 MINI Convertible can still be the older car even though a 2007 MINI hatch isn't. That's exactly why I ask for the VIN rather than trusting the model year alone.
Two reasons, and neither is a markup on you. First, the blade: BMW uses a high-security laser-cut blade, which needs specific cutting equipment and a blank that starts at $60 on its own, where an ordinary key blank is a few dollars. Second, the fob hardware itself costs materially more than the Japanese-brand equivalents, and the newer keyless BMW fobs are the most expensive part I stock for any brand. Set that against a BMW dealership, where you're looking at a parts order, a tow or a drive in, and a service appointment — I'm still the cheaper and faster route, and I come to your car. Dealer vs locksmith, with real numbers →
Sometimes, and I'll be straight with you about the risk. Cheap online BMW fobs are the most common bad-parts story I deal with — a lot of what sells on marketplace listings is either the wrong frequency for a Canadian-market car, a used fob already locked to someone else's vehicle, or a clone that won't take programming at all. If you already own one, text me a photo of it and the part number before you book and I'll tell you whether it's worth trying. If it works, you pay labour only. If it doesn't, you've paid me for a trip and still need a key — which is why I usually suggest letting me supply the part.
Send your year, model, and a photo of your key and VIN — you'll get a written quote back, and a straight answer if yours is one I can't do. 3 Series, 5 Series, X3, X5, MINI and the rest, cut and programmed on-site. Pay after the key works.