★★★★★
"I was very impressed. He was on time and set up both key fobs and cut both keys for my car and it only took about an hour. He really knows his stuff and I really appreciated it."
— Glenn Buckboro · Google review
Checking hours…
Most fob jobs: 20–45 minutes at your car
Key fob programming in Winnipeg. Bought online or just stopped working? I program it at your car.
I'm Leo. I program key fobs in Winnipeg — at your driveway, parking lot, wherever the car is. Bring-your-own fobs, supply-and-program, replacement remotes, lost-fob re-pairs. Most jobs finish in 20–45 minutes. The number I text you is the number you pay.
To be precise: this is the separate remote fob — the clicker that locks and unlocks your doors — on a car you start with a transponder key in the ignition. If your car is push-to-start and the fob itself is the key, that's a proximity smart key (a different part and price) — the spare-key page covers those.
Prefer Messenger?
Open chat →
- ✓ I come to you
- ✓ Written quote first
- ✓ NASTF VSP authorized
Quick triage
What's actually wrong with your fob?
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Nothing happens at all
→ Likely a dead battery. Try the 5-min test below before paying anyone — including me.
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Buttons click but car doesn't respond
→ Likely lost programming. $90+ on-site re-pair.
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Bought a replacement online
→ I program it at your car. $90+ for the work. Read the online-fob note below.
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Sometimes works, sometimes doesn't
→ Failing battery, or vehicle-side interference. Test first, then text me.
Try this first
Before you call me, try the 5-minute battery test.
Roughly half the "fob not working" calls I get turn out to be a dead battery. Here's how to check before you pay anyone. If it works, great — saved you a service call. If it doesn't, you've ruled out the cheap fix and we know it's worth me coming out. If it's just the battery, my full fob battery replacement guide walks through which one and how.
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01
Look up your fob's battery type first
Quick online search for your year/make/model fob will tell you the exact battery type and how to open the case without breaking the clips. There's usually a YouTube walkthrough for almost every fob. Common types: CR2032, CR2025, CR1632, CR2450 — yours could be any of these. Once you know which one, pick it up at Canadian Tire or any hardware/drugstore for roughly $5–10.
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02
Find the seam and pry the fob open
Most fobs split along a visible seam. Use a flat tool — butter knife works — gently, don't force it. Some fobs have a hidden screw under a sticker on the back.
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03
Swap the battery — note the polarity
The + (positive) side is usually up. If you flip it the wrong way the fob won't work — just flip it back. Don't touch the battery contacts with bare fingers if you can avoid it; skin oil dulls the connection over time.
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04
Snap the fob shut, test from 2 metres away
Stand back from the car so you know the radio signal is actually reaching the receiver. Sometimes touching the car bypasses the wireless test and gives you a false pass.
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✓
If it works — you just saved a $90+ service call.
If it still doesn't work, the battery isn't the problem. Text me — I'll diagnose at your car and send a written quote before I dispatch.
Want more like this? The RAXO blog covers car-key troubleshooting, scams to watch for, and dealer-vs-locksmith cost comparisons.
Diagnosis
Why your key fob isn't working — four most common causes
If the battery test didn't fix it, you're looking at one of these. I diagnose the actual issue when I arrive — and if it turns out to be the car and not the fob, I tell you so before I bill you.
Cause 1 · Most common
Dead or weak battery
Symptoms: Range drops to 1–2 metres, the fob works only when held right against the car, operation gets intermittent — and nothing at all once the battery is fully flat.
Try the 5-min test above first — $5 fix vs. $90+ call.
Cause 2 · Common after battery work
Lost programming
Symptoms: Buttons click cleanly, the fob feels normal, but the car doesn't respond to any signal. Often happens after the car battery is disconnected or fully drained, after a jump-start or battery booster, or after a fob battery sat dead for weeks.
I re-pair it at your car. $90+. 20–30 minutes.
Cause 3 · Less common
Damaged or broken fob
Symptoms: Some buttons work, others don't — or they feel mushy and stop clicking from years of wear. Fob got wet or dropped and never fully recovered. Cracked case, loose internal chip.
Sometimes the case is salvageable. Often a replacement fob is the right call. I diagnose at your car.
Cause 4 · Rare but worth checking
Vehicle-side issue
Symptoms: New battery doesn't help. A second working fob (if you have one) also doesn't work. Sometimes a blown fuse, sometimes a faulty receiver.
This isn't a fob problem — it's a car problem. I'll tell you so and point you to a dealer or auto-electrical shop rather than charge you for nothing.
How an on-site fob programming visit works
No tow. No appointment at a dealer. No tech who arrives and "figures out the price."
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01
Text me the symptoms
Year, make, model. What's happening (or not happening). Whether you've already tried a fresh battery. Whether you bought a fob online — and if so, send me the listing.
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02
I confirm scope and quote
Quote in writing before I dispatch. If I'm bringing a fob, I confirm the model. If you're providing one, I tell you whether I think it'll pair before I head out.
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03
I program at your car
Dealer-level access tools, security routine, test lock/unlock/panic/start. New battery swapped in if needed. You pay after it works — not before.
What it costs
Open-ended starting prices below. Exact number comes by text before I dispatch — and the number I send is the number you pay.
Cheapest path
Just the battery?
~$5–10 part
Swap it yourself — see the test above, or the full fob battery guide. A coin-cell battery from Canadian Tire or a hardware store runs about $5–10 depending on the type your fob takes. My minimum service call is $90, so paying me for a battery alone is bad math. I'd rather you save the money.
Most common
Programming — your fob
$90+
You have the fob (existing or aftermarket online purchase). I program it to your car at your driveway. Battery swap included if needed. Read the online-fob note below before buying.
I bring everything
Supply + program
$90+
I supply an OEM-equivalent fob matched to your vehicle and program it on-site. Floor is $90+ for simple cases; final depends on vehicle and fob type — premium proximity fobs run higher. Written quote first.
For the full pricing breakdown across all my services, see the pricing page.
Bought a fob online? Here's what you need to know.
Buying your own fob can save you 30–50% versus me supplying it. But not every online fob actually works. Two things to be straight about before you order:
What I warranty
- ✓My work. If I programmed your fob and it works when I leave, it should keep working with normal use.
- ✓If the fob stops working from a programming error on my end, I come back free.
- ✓If I'm suspicious of the fob brand before I start, I'll tell you up front and let you decide.
What I don't warranty
- !The fob itself. If you bought it from a third party, only the seller can warranty the part.
- !If your fob fails three weeks later from a defective chip, the seller covers it — not me.
- !If a fob you supplied doesn't pair, the labour for the programming attempt still applies. The part is between you and the seller; I warranty my work, not the part.
Where to buy: Hopkins, Strattec, or "OEM-equivalent" branded fobs from reputable Canadian/US suppliers. Where not to buy: Amazon/AliExpress no-name fobs under $20 — most have weak chips or wrong chip families. Not sure? Send me the listing before you click "buy". I'll tell you if it looks legit. No charge for the second opinion.
Real work, real cars
No stock photos. Leo will swap these in with shots from actual fob programming jobs.
📷 PHOTO 1 — Dealer-level access tools mid-session, fresh fob on dash.
📷 PHOTO 2 — Cracked-open fob with old vs. new coin-cell battery side by side.
📷 PHOTO 3 — Customer testing the freshly programmed fob from across the parking lot.
What customers say
Nine verified Google reviews so far — early but real. Here are three.
★★★★★
"Great service! He quickly made a copy of my car key, and it works perfectly. Friendly, professional, and fair price. Highly recommend!"
— Oleh Vashchenko · Google review
★★★★★
"Precise, polite and punctual."
— Dominic Ibeme · Google review
9 verified reviews · 5.0 average · all on the Google Business Profile. No padding, no buying.
Fob programming questions, answered
If yours isn't here, just text me. More on the full FAQ page.
Will any aftermarket key fob work with my car?
Not always. Cheap fobs from random online sellers ($5–$15 range) often have weak chips that don't pair reliably, or have the wrong chip family for your immobilizer. Reputable aftermarket brands — Hopkins, Strattec, OEM-equivalent from Canadian or US suppliers — usually pair fine. Send me the listing before you buy and I'll tell you if it looks legit.
What if the fob I bought doesn't pair with my car?
The labour for the programming attempt still applies — the time and tooling investment are real either way. Defective or mismatched parts are between you and the seller; I warranty my work, not the part. That said: if I'm suspicious of the fob you brought based on the brand or appearance, I'll tell you before I start so you can decide whether to proceed or hold off and order a different one. No surprises after the fact.
Do you replace the battery for free?
If you're already paying for programming, yes — battery is included if needed. If it's only a battery swap, do it yourself for about $5–10 depending on the battery type your fob takes (see the test above). My minimum service call is $90 — paying me for a battery alone is bad math.
Where should I buy a key fob online?
I prefer Hopkins, Strattec, or "OEM-equivalent" branded fobs from reputable Canadian or US suppliers. Avoid Amazon and AliExpress no-name fobs under $20 — they often have bad chips or the wrong chip family. Some sellers also list the wrong part number for your vehicle. Send me the listing before purchase if you're not sure.
What if I lost my only fob?
Depends on whether you can still start the car. If you've still got the transponder key that starts it and you've only lost the remote fob, that's a routine replacement — I program a new remote fob (one you bought, or one I supply): from $90+ BYO, $90+ if I supply it. It's only all-keys-lost — the pricier from-scratch job with ownership verification — if you've also lost the key that actually starts the car. Not sure which you've got? Text me your year/make/model and what's missing, and I'll tell you straight.
How long does fob programming take on-site?
20–45 minutes for most vehicles. Some run a 10–15 minute security timer before the immobilizer accepts a new fob — that's the car running its checks, not me running them.
Will the new fob have all the same buttons as my original?
If you supply your own fob and it matches the part number, yes. If I supply, I'll match the OEM button layout where possible, or call out which buttons (if any) are different in the written quote before I dispatch.
Send me the details
Faster than calling. I'll text you back with a written quote.
Battery test didn't fix it? Text me — I'll diagnose at your car.
Written quote before I dispatch. Pay after the fob works. If the issue turns out to be the car and not the fob, I tell you that instead of billing for nothing.