RAXO Locksmiths

~7 min read

Troubleshooting

Key fob not working? Start here.

L

Leo · RAXO Locksmiths

Published May 31, 2026

Your fob worked yesterday. Today, nothing. You press the button and the doors don't move. The trunk doesn't pop. The car still starts, or maybe it doesn't. Before you book a locksmith and pay $90+ for what might be a $8 battery, run this triage.

Eight out of ten "my fob died" calls I get in Winnipeg are actually a dead coin-cell battery. Eight out of ten. So we start there — even if you're sure that's not it. Especially if you're sure that's not it.

First — match your symptom to the likely cause.

Same fob, different failures. The symptom narrows what's broken.

If this is happening

Buttons don't work, but the key still starts the car.

Engine cranks, immobilizer doesn't object. The fob's logic is fine — it just isn't transmitting.

DIY first Probable cause: dead fob battery (~80%)

If this is happening

Only one button stopped (lock works, unlock doesn't).

Fob signal is reaching the car for some buttons. The dead button is usually a worn rubber dome on the PCB.

Locksmith Cause: failed switch in fob — time for a new one

If this is happening

Push-to-start says "key not detected" or "place fob in tray."

The car can't see the fob in the cabin. Could be a depleted battery (weakens proximity range first) or a real proximity-loop failure.

DIY first Try a battery swap before assuming worse

If this is happening

Engine won't crank or start. Immobilizer light is flashing.

That's not "fob not working" — that's the immobilizer not recognizing any key. Different problem entirely.

The 5-minute battery test (do this first).

If your symptom matched any of the DIY-first cards above, here's the exact sequence. Most jobs end after step 5.

Look up your fob's battery type.

Quick search: "[year make model] key fob battery". Common coin-cells: CR2032, CR2025, CR1632, CR2450. Yours could be any of these — they look almost identical, but they're not interchangeable in voltage, dimensions, or capacity.

Pick the battery up — $5-10 at most.

Canadian Tire, Shoppers, Walmart, any hardware store. Some specialty coin-cells (CR2450, CR1632) run $10. Buy two if you're going to be there anyway — fobs eat them every 2-3 years.

Open the fob — there's usually a YouTube video.

Almost every fob model has a 60-second teardown video. Search "[your fob model] battery replacement" — important because the clip directions and screwdriver size vary. Force the wrong way and you'll snap the case clips. Patience, not strength.

Note the + side before you swap.

Take a photo with your phone. Coin-cells go in one specific orientation, and the markings are tiny. Drop the new one in the same way, close the case until you hear it click on every edge.

Test — at the car, with the key in hand.

Press lock, press unlock. If your fob works, you're done. Total cost: $5-10. Total time: 5 minutes. If it still doesn't work — keep reading.

"If your fob worked yesterday and a fresh battery brings it back, that's the whole story. Don't let anyone upsell you a new fob for a problem the battery just fixed."

If the battery didn't fix it — 4 possibilities.

Battery is fresh, still nothing. Here's what's actually happening.

Possibility 1

Fob lost sync with the car.

Rolling-code fobs (most North American makes since ~2000) drift out of sync if the battery dies, if the fob is pressed many times out of range, or after some battery disconnects. Many makes have a customer-side resync — turn the key to ON, press lock-unlock a couple of times, cycle the key. Procedure varies by make.

DIY possible Google: "[year make model] fob resync"

Possibility 2

Internal fob board has failed.

If your fob is 8+ years old, the transmitter chip or the rubber-dome contacts on the buttons can wear out. Sometimes you can tell because one button stops first, then another. Time for a new fob — and most fobs need to be programmed to the car after pairing.

Locksmith From $90+, BYO or I supply

Possibility 3

Receiver/antenna in the car is the issue.

Less common, but it happens — especially on older trucks where the antenna is in the rearview mirror or the steering column. Diagnosis: try a known-good spare fob (a borrowed identical one, or yours after programming a new one). If neither works, the receiver is the issue. That's a parts replacement, not a fob job.

Locksmith / dealer Diagnose first before swapping parts

Possibility 4

Bought a fob online, it never paired.

Aftermarket fob from Amazon, eBay, or Walmart arrives "unprogrammed by design." It looks identical to the old one but the car doesn't know it yet. This is fob programming territory — exactly what I do.

"Fob not working" vs "lost all keys" — different problems.

This is the #1 confusion that costs Winnipeg drivers money. They book the wrong service, wait, get told it's the wrong job. Here's the clean line.

Fob programming territory

"Car starts, fob doesn't."

You insert the key (or have the proximity fob nearby), the engine starts normally. Just the lock/unlock/trunk/panic buttons don't respond. Your immobilizer is fine — the remote-radio side of the fob is the problem.

Price floor: $90+ — BYO or supplied

All-keys-lost territory

"Car won't crank or start, immobilizer light is flashing."

The engine won't even attempt to fire, or it cranks and dies immediately. The dash immobilizer/security light flashes. The car doesn't recognize any key — you need a brand-new one cut and programmed from scratch.

Price floor: $280+ AKL · Lost-keys page →

Pricing reality check — DIY vs locksmith vs dealer.

Open-ended starting prices for Winnipeg, May 2026. Exact number depends on year/make/model — I text it before I dispatch.

DIY · coin-cell battery swap $5 – $10
Locksmith · battery swap on-site (if your fob is sealed) $40 – $60
Locksmith · fob programming, you bring the fob $90+
Locksmith · fob programming, I supply the fob $90+
Dealer · fob program (+ tow if car won't start) $200 – $450+

Floors include labour. Exact price by text before dispatch. Full pricing page →

When to text me.

You've done the triage. Here's the call.

  • Battery swapped, still nothing. Text me the year/make/model and what symptom remains. Most likely a fob program job from $90+.
  • You bought a replacement fob online. Send me a photo of the fob and the original. I'll confirm it's the right part number before you waste a trip.
  • Fob is physically cracked, water-damaged, or buttons feel mushy. Time for a new one. Text me — I'll source the correct fob and program it on-site.
  • Engine won't crank, immobilizer light flashing. That's AKL, not fob programming — see the lost-keys page. Different floor ($280+), different procedure.
  • Not sure which category you're in. Text me anyway. "Not sure — help me figure it out" is a real intake option. I'll diagnose by message before charging for a trip.

How this works with me

Honest math before I dispatch.

  • Written quote first. Year/make/model + photo = a firm price by text. The number I send is the number you pay.
  • Battery first, fob second. If a battery fixes your fob, I'll tell you to skip the appointment — not invent a programming job.
  • BYO friendly. Aftermarket fob from Amazon? Bring it — I'll program it at the floor price $90+.
  • I come to you. Driveway, parking lot, wherever the car is. Mobile, Winnipeg + surrounding.
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